Dirty condenser coils
The condenser coil releases the heat taken out of the food. Coated with dust, lint or pet hair, it cannot shed that heat, so the compressor runs longer and the fridge slowly warms up.
Refrigerator repair in Los Angeles
Refrigerator Not Cooling? Repair in Los Angeles
Fridge warm, freezer not freezing, water on the floor, a loud buzz or a water dispenser that stopped? We find the cause at your home or business and give you an estimate before any work begins.
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- 90-day repair warranty
- Licensed & insured
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- $85 / $120 service callResidential appliances / commercial equipment
- Written estimateBefore any work starts
- 90-day warrantyOn the completed repair
- Open 7 days8 AM–6 PM
Refrigerator not cooling or not cold
A refrigerator not cooling puts everything inside on a clock. The fridge may be warm while the freezer still works, both sections may warm up, or the unit runs with the light on and never gets cold. We repair built-in and freestanding refrigerators, from Sub-Zero and Viking to LG, Samsung and Whirlpool.
Evaporator or condenser fan motor
The evaporator fan behind the freezer's back panel pushes cold air into the fresh food section. When it stops, the freezer may stay cold while the fridge warms up. A failed condenser fan weakens the whole system.
Defrost system failure
If the defrost heater, thermostat or sensor, or the control board fails, frost builds on the evaporator coil until it blocks the airflow. Heavy frost on the freezer's back wall is the clue.
Air damper or blocked airflow
Cold air often reaches the fridge from the freezer through a duct and an air damper. A damper stuck closed, a duct blocked by ice or food packed against the vents keeps the fridge warm.
Start relay, control board or compressor
If the compressor does not start, nothing gets cold. A failed start relay or overload often clicks every few minutes. Many LG and Samsung models use inverter compressors without a start relay; there a control or inverter board fault can keep the compressor from running.
Sealed system problem
If the compressor runs and the fans turn, but the evaporator never gets properly cold, the cause may be a refrigerant leak, a restriction in the tubing or a compressor that runs without pumping. Only a technician does this sealed system work.
What you can safely check
- Check the controls: about 37°F in the fridge, 0°F in the freezer, and no showroom or demo mode, which turns off cooling on some models.
- Make sure the door closes fully and no drawer, shelf or tall container is holding it open.
- Move food away from the air vents inside the fridge and the freezer.
- Make sure the unit has power, the breaker has not tripped and nothing blocks the grille at the top or bottom.
If that didn't help, it's time for a technician.
When you need a technician
Call if the fridge stays above 40°F after these checks, heavy frost covers the freezer's back wall, or the compressor clicks, runs nonstop or trips the breaker. The USDA advises discarding perishable food kept above 40°F for more than 2 hours, so it pays to call early.
Not sure what is wrong? Tell us what the refrigerator is doing.
Freezer not freezing
If the freezer feels warm or ice cream is soft, the cause is usually frost on the evaporator coil, a stopped fan, dirty condenser coils or, less often, the sealed system. Too much frost on the back wall points to the defrost system.
Safe to check
- Set the freezer near 0°F.
- Make sure the freezer door or drawer closes fully and no bag or tray is holding it open.
- Keep food away from the vents on the back wall, and keep the grille at the bottom, or the top on built-in models, clear.
If the freezer stays well above 0°F, or the frost keeps coming back, call a technician.
Refrigerator leaking water
Where the water shows up first tells the technician where to look.
- Clogged defrost drain. Melted frost runs to a pan under the unit. If the drain clogs or freezes, water ends up under the crisper drawers or on the floor.
- Water filter or filter housing. A filter that is not locked in, or a cracked housing, leaks near the filter.
- Water inlet valve or supply line. A crack or a loose connection at the back leaks onto the floor, often only while the ice maker fills.
- Drain pan. A cracked or shifted pan lets defrost water reach the floor.
- Ice maker fill problem. A frozen fill tube or a valve that does not shut off sends water into the freezer.
Safe to check
- Make sure the water filter is pushed in and locked, then wipe the floor dry and note where the water comes back first.
- If water comes from the back, close the shutoff valve for the refrigerator's water line, if you can reach it without moving the unit.
- If water has reached an outlet or the power cord, stay out of the water and switch that circuit off at the breaker first.
Call a technician if the water comes back, ice forms on the freezer floor, or the leak is at the valve or the line.
Refrigerator making noise
A hum, a click when the compressor starts or stops and cubes dropping into the bin are normal. A loud buzz, a rattle, a squeal or grinding is not.
- Condenser fan. Rattling or buzzing from the bottom back: debris in the fan or a worn fan motor.
- Evaporator fan. A squeal or chirp inside the freezer, sometimes from ice touching the blades.
- Compressor or start relay. A loud hum, or a click every few minutes while the fridge warms up: the compressor may not be starting.
- Water inlet valve. A long buzz with no water reaching the ice maker.
- Drain pan or panel. A pan touching the fan or a loose back panel rattles.
Safe to check
- Note where the sound comes from and whether it stops when you open the freezer door; on many models the freezer fan stops then.
- Make sure the refrigerator is not touching the wall or the cabinets.
Call a technician for grinding or squealing that does not stop, or clicking with no cooling. If you smell burning, switch the refrigerator off at the breaker first.
Water dispenser not working
- Water filter. A clogged or overdue filter, or one that is not seated correctly, cuts the flow. Most refrigerator filters need replacing about every 6 months.
- Frozen water line in the door. The line to the dispenser can freeze, often when the freezer is set colder than needed.
- Water inlet valve. The valve buzzes but no water comes out, and the ice maker may stop too.
- Control lock or dispenser switch. The lock is on, or the switch behind the paddle has failed.
- Kinked supply line. The line behind the refrigerator can kink when the unit is pushed back into place.
Safe to check
- Make sure the control lock is off.
- If the filter is past its date, replace it as your owner's manual describes and run water through the dispenser.
- Make sure the household water valve that supplies the refrigerator is fully open.
Call a technician if there is still no water, both the ice maker and the dispenser stopped, or water leaks at the door.
Refrigerator not making ice
If the water dispenser works but there is no ice, the cause is usually a frozen fill tube, the ice maker itself or a freezer that is too warm. See ice maker repair in Los Angeles.
Commercial refrigerators, prep tables and bar coolers
A commercial refrigerator not cooling is a food safety problem first: food that needs temperature control must stay at 41°F or below. We provide on-site commercial refrigeration repair for restaurants, bars, hotels and markets, including reach-ins, prep tables and bar coolers from True, Traulsen, Turbo Air, Beverage-Air and Hoshizaki.
- Dirty condenser or condenser fan. Grease, flour and lint clog the coil fast in a kitchen.
- Evaporator fan or blocked airflow. The coil stays cold, but the food does not.
- Iced-up evaporator coil. The defrost off cycle does not happen, or humid air keeps coming in.
- Thermostat or controller fault. The display looks normal while the food is warmer.
- Door not closing fully. A door held open by a sheet pan, or a worn self-closing hinge, lets warm air in all day.
- Refrigerant leak or compressor problem. Sealed system work for a technician.
On prep tables the rail warms first when the lid stays up. Many bar coolers breathe through a grille at the bottom front, so keep cases and bar mats away from it.
Safe to check
Leave a thermometer in a glass of water on a middle shelf for about 30 minutes and compare it with the display. Above 41°F, move food that needs temperature control to a unit that is holding temperature, then call.
Diagnosis
What the technician checks
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Temperatures and the cooling cycle
Fridge, freezer and coil temperatures, and whether the compressor and the fans start and run as they should.
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Airflow and defrost
The fans, the air damper, the condenser coil, and the defrost heater, sensor and drain.
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Water system
The inlet valve, filter, supply line, fill tube, dispenser and ice maker, on refrigerators that have them.
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Controls and exact model
Error codes, control boards, and the model and serial data, matched before an estimate or a parts recommendation.
$85 / $120
Diagnostic service call. The diagnostic service call is $85 for residential appliances and $120 for commercial equipment. If you approve the repair, this fee is applied toward the total cost.
Repair or replace?
Repair usually makes sense when
- The problem is in one part: a fan motor, a defrost part, a relay, a sensor or a control board.
- It is a built-in or panel-ready refrigerator. These repairs usually cost far less than replacing it.
Replacement is worth a look when
- The compressor or the sealed system failed on an older refrigerator, and the estimate gets close to the price of a new one.
- Several major parts need work at once.
We only do repairs, so we have no reason to push a new refrigerator. If a repair is not worth it, we will tell you plainly.
Refrigerator brands we repair
Home refrigerators
Amana
Blomberg
Bosch
Dacor
EdgeStar
Electrolux
Fisher & Paykel
Frigidaire
GE
JennAir
Kenmore
KitchenAid
LG
Marvel
Maytag
Miele
Monogram
Perlick
Samsung
Sub-Zero
Summit
Thermador
U-Line
Viking
Whirlpool
Commercial refrigeration
Bastion Service is an independent repair company and is not affiliated with these brands.
Customer reviews
What customers say
He got my kitchen and washer fixed he was Reliable and fair priced. Definitely recommend him and will use him in the future.
I found Andy because my washing machine had been leaking. He came out the same day I called and diagnosed the problem pretty quickly. He ordered the necessary parts and fixed my washing machine in a matter of days. We haven’t had a problem since, we are very happy with his service and professionalism.
Andre is the best tech we have ever worked with. After Samsung sent 3 techs out and couldn’t fix our bespoke fridge -Andre came to our house and diagnosed and fixed it in 2 hours with a warranty and no additional parts. Truly a wizard.
FAQ
Refrigerator repair questions
Why is my refrigerator not cooling but the freezer works?
Usually because cold air is not reaching the fresh food section. The most common causes are a failed evaporator fan, a frosted evaporator coil from a defrost fault, or a stuck air damper.
My fridge is not cooling, but the light is on. What does that mean?
The light only shows that the refrigerator has power. The compressor, the fans or the defrost system can stop while the light still works. A click every few minutes with no cooling often means the compressor is not starting.
What temperature should a commercial refrigerator hold?
The health code (California Retail Food Code, based on the FDA Food Code) requires food that needs temperature control to be held at 41°F or below. Many kitchens set reach-ins around 35–38°F.
How fast can you come?
We schedule the earliest available visit, 7 days a week, 8 AM–6 PM. Ask about same-day availability when you call.
How much is the diagnostic service call?
The diagnostic service call is $85 for residential appliances and $120 for commercial equipment. If you approve the repair, this fee is applied toward the total cost.
Schedule refrigerator repair in Los Angeles
Call us or book service online. We will find out what is wrong and explain the repair before any work begins.